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Welcome to our October edition of Cosmetic Vegetable Oils.
Bearberry is our oil of the month. Our
"back to school" section will give you a brief explanation about anti-oxidants. And of course a selection of the most interesting questions you sent us.

Monthly Oil FlashBearberry Oil
Latin: Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi
Also known as Uva Ursi to herbalists and healers the Bearberry plant is very unique. In addition to its cosmetic uses it is also used worldwide for its medicinal effect on the body, and traditionally was also a food.

History
It has had many names throughout its usage including, Bearberry, Kinnikinnick, Pinemat Manzanita, Carillo, Mealberry, Mountain Box, Mountain Cranberry, Sandberry, Sagackhomi, Bear's Berry and Arberry. Just for fun, the name Kinnikinnick is the longest word in the English language that is pronounced the same either backwards or forwards. It is also under this name the plant was known to the American Natives. The bright red berries stay on the plant all winter long. After a long winter sleep the mighty bear with his strength and endurance chooses the petit Bearberry as its first sustenance. The native people also choose it for nourishment, eating the fresh berries raw or cooked. And they also were preserved either fresh in grease filled birch bark containers, or dried. The early Americans also used the leaves prepared as a tea to treat ailments of the kidneys and bladder, as well as other conditions.

One additional use, and the source of the name Kinnikinnick, was to smoke the dried leaves. The Native Americans used to smoke tobacco, and often blended it with other herbs (commonly Bearberry) for certain spiritual uses. The leaves of the Bearberry when smoked were said to "support the agreement between the people". The name Kinnikinnick is an Algonqian word meaning "mixture". It should be noted also that Bearberry is a relative to Manzanita.

Botany
Description: Long-lived and woody shrub with 4-6 inch long reaching underground roots. The leaves are dark green and leathery, long, like a spatula in form that is being rounded at the apex and tapering gradually towards the base to a very short stalk. The edge is smooth and slightly rolled back, the young leaves fringed with short hairs. Upper surface dark, shining green, the veins deeply impressed, the lower side a paler green, with the veins prominent and forming a coarse network. No distinctive odor, but a very astringent and somewhat bitter taste. The stems are 1-2 inches long and have many branches originating from them. The new shoots rise obliquely from the stems for a few inches and are covered with soft hairs. The fruits are red berries. One finds them on the rocks of mountain, in the Alps, the Pyrenees and the Cevenne s in southern France. There also exists a great number in the United States mostly in mountainous and rocky regions.

Its role in ecological balance: Often found on abrupt sand banks, mountains and cliffs, the Bearberry is useful in strengthening the ground and slowing down the erosion caused by the wind. For these reasons, the landscape designers like to plant it in the sandy places, prone to erosion, where it will constitute an effective and pleasant appealing covering.

Locally: originating in Asia and Northern North America, it can also be found in the southern mountains of Europe. One will find it in the same habitats as the cornflower, on the rocks of siliceous nature or in the clearings of the forests of conifers. It can grow quite well in dry nutrient-poor soils as well.

Parts used: Leaves and fruits

Composition
Arbutine: (a glucoside of the hydroquinone), Tannins, Glucosides, Terpenes, Flavonoids, organic acids, Rock salt (Ca, K), Allantoin

Properties
The Bearberry is used much in traditional medicine.
Bearberry leaf is widely used as a diuretic, astringent, and antiseptic. Folk medicine around the world has recommended Bearberry for nephritis, kidney stones, and chronic cystitis. The herb has also been used as a general tonic for weakened kidneys, liver or pancreas. The primary chemical constituents of this herb include glycosides (arbutin, methylarbutin, ericolin), allantoin, flavonoids (quercetin , myricacitrin), tannins, hydroquinone, ellagic acid, gallic acid, malic acid, and ursolic acid. It also contains vitamin A, iron, manganese, selenium and silicon.
The leaves are used in decoction, which is measured as 10 to 15 G per liter of water. Add leaves to the water and bring to a boil. Reduce to a low simmer and cook for half an hour. This allows the extraction of some of the key components including arbutine, which id one of the active ingredients of the Bearberry. One takes 2 or 3 cups per day. As the plant is rich in tannins, it can cause gastric irritation, if this occurs add some peppermint or chamomile flower tea at a measure of 1:1 with the finished Bearberry decoction.

The sheets of the Bearberry are rich in arbutine, which is a powerful urinary and intestinal disinfectant, as well as active on the colon bacilli, and principal germs responsible for the urinary infections (cystitis). The specific action on the intestinal bacteria is very important, as the digestive tract houses thousands of bacteria which are responsible for many things, including; nutrient digestion and assimilation, vitamin production, and immune system building and maintaining. The corruption of this environment can result in many imbalances and diseases.
It seems that the arbutine is metabolized only in the urinary tract, where it is metabolized into glucose and hydroquinone, substance very close to phenol, a powerful disinfectant.

Effects: diuretic disinfectant and anti-putrefactive, sedative of the urinary tracts, astringent.

Use:
Bearberry is a leaf extract with cleansing and skin-brightening (lightening) properties. It is well known in folklore to act as a skin-whitening agent. Cosmetic scientists have prepared an extract of the plant and demonstrated how this whitening happens. The properties of the plant have demonstrated an effect inhibiting melanin production in human melanocytes by reducing tyrosinase (enzyme) activity. This means the skin becomes lighter as melanin is the pigment that darkens skin; therefore a reduction in melanin results in a reduction of skin pigment, and thus lighter skin. It has been demonstrated to be a better whitener than kojic acid or L-ascorbic acid, and has also been demonstrated to be more effective as an antioxidant than hydroquinone.

Use in Cosmetics:
Bearberry also known as Uva-Ursi is a leaf extract with cleansing and skin-brightening (lightening) properties. It is well known in folklore to act as a skin-whitening agent. Cosmetic scientists have prepared an extract of the plant and demonstrated how this whitening happens. The properties of the plant have demonstrated an effect inhibiting melanin production in human melanocytes by reducing tyrosinase (enzyme) activity. This means the skin becomes lighter as melanin is the pigment that darkens skin; therefore a reduction in melanin results in a reduction of skin pigment, and thus lighter skin. It has been demonstrated to be a better whitener than kojic acid or L-ascorbic acid, and has also been demonstrated to be more effective as an antioxidant than hydroquinone.


back to schoolAntioxidants: A brief explanation
As oxidation can cause damage to cells and may contribute to aging, antioxidants help prevent oxidation and may help increase immune function and possibly decrease risk of infection and cancer. Considerable laboratory evidence from chemical, cell culture, and animal studies indicates that antioxidants may slow or possibly prevent the development of cancer. (1) Antioxidants exist as vitamins, minerals and other compounds in foods.

Free radicals in the body like to attack the cells. They are caused by charged oxygen within the blood primarily. Free radicals are actually useful to an extent as the body produces them to attack pathogens and other hostile type of foreign bodily invaders, similar to the body's production and use of systemic enzymes. An over abundance of, or out of control free radicals however may attack healthy bodily cells. Antioxidants are substances that may protect cells from the damage caused by the unstable free radicals. Free radical damage may lead to cancer. Antioxidants interact with and stabilize free radicals and may prevent some of the damage free radicals otherwise might cause. Examples of antioxidants include beta-carotene, lycopene, vitamins C, E, and A, and other substances.
A few of the better known antioxidants include carotenoids--the substance that gives fruits such as peaches and many vegetables their deep rich colors. Apricots, broccoli, pumpkin, cantaloupes, spinach and sweet potatoes, are some good choices in addition to lycopene in tomatoes. Vitamin C and E are also good antioxidants, as well as, magnesium, copper and zinc.

Remember many of our oils both the cosmetic (external), and the nutritive (internal) contain anti-oxidants . Some do so in very high amounts, so have a look.
Here is a list of some of Codina oils with exceptionally high Antioxidant Activity: Bearberry, Grapeseed, Black Cumin (Nigella), Pumpkin Seed, Wheat Germ, Virgin Coconut, Babassu, Black Currant Seed, Carrot oil, Gold of Pleasure, Hemp Oil, Jojoba, Milk Thistle, Moringa, Perilla, Rose Hip, Sesame, Tamanu.

1. National Cancer Institute

Your Questions
From M.
Hi, i just wanted to know if the Nigella butter black cumin has any animal ingredients in it, like lanolin, glycerine or is that plant, any tallow, carmine or any other animal derivatives and is there any alcohol in it like ethyl or ethanol or are they used as solvents, sorry for any inconvenience, looking forward to hearing from you, thank you.
 

Codina: Hello, I appreciate your caution. One of the ideals we have here at Codina is the healing power of the plants in nature. We take personal pride in our completely natural process, and would never use chemicals or impure ingredients at any stage. We do not use solvents, or alcohol as extraction or preservation methods, and surely do not mix our high quality Nigella butter with any animal ingredients. Our Nigella butter is just a mixt of 60% cold press unrefined shea butter and 40% of Nigella.


From M. I'd like to make my own mixture of ingredients for my cosmetics but I do not know how to proceed using your products.

Codina: To make a simple cream start with a very pure cream base, and one that you know works for you. Than you can add from a few drops up to 5-7% of the oil of your choice such as Hemp for an antioxidant, Wheat Germ for anti-aging, Argan for wrinkle prevention, or Pumpkin Seed for nourishment. We say 5-7% as this will keep the consistency of the cream thick enough, while utilizing the healing properties of the oils. You can also if desired add a few drops of an essential oil as mentioned in the question below.


From M. I have age spots in several places in my face and neck. Do you have any suggestion?

Codina: As far as the age spots two recommendation are: sheabutter for its general antioxidant effects in that it will protect the skin from further oxidative damage and may help prevent future spots. Also this months feature oil, Bearberry oil, has been successful in actual fading or lightening of the spots, or other discolored skin.


From N. some oils have a characteristic smell that is not always pleasant when apply on face or body. I am thinking of borage oil more specifically. Is it possible and safe to cover the smell with an essential oil. Which one would you recommend for borage oil on face? 

Codina: Two essential oils which will bring a more pleasant odor are Lavender, and Chamomile. Some additional benefits of this are the lavender is very healing for the skin and has an effect of reducing scar tissue (think blemishes and acne scars), and Chamomile is wonderful for reducing puffiness and the looks wrinkles create.


NEW! Forum Codina: everything about vegetable oils health and skin.


Bearberry plant
October 2005


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