Sheabutter, Codina - Page Title

Welcome to our new edition of Cosmetic Vegetable Oils.
In May 2005, we are glad to present the Borage oil, so good for women, and in our "Back to school" section we will talk about old fashion soap making and the insaponifiable elements that remain active in the soap. With this month promotion, get a free soap when purchasing on line, and of course you'll find our answers to your intrresting questions including those regarding our dog friends.

Editorial: Nowadays using vegetable oils to nurture ones skin is a choice that goes against all the advertisement for cosmetic products. Their message is: "go ahead, don't think too much and use our product, it's the best and it is good for every one..."
Nevertheless each skin is different, like fingerprints, because each of us is special. It is our responsability to find out what is best for us. We need to learn how to know ourselves. By being observant and caring our skin will tell us.

The Oil Of Borage and the "borage test"

History: The history of borage (Borago officinalis) is two fold with the herb first being used during roman times, where it was purported to "dispel melancholy and induce euphoria" and classified by the famous naturalist Pliny the Elder in the encyclopedia Historia Naturalis as an antidepressant due to its ability to “…maketh a man merry and joyfull”.

And the oil is reported to have come of use during the Middle Ages, in the south of Spain by the Arabs. It is believed that it then spread to Europe through their trade with the Arabs and by the 13th century arrived in Denmark.

The name is said to come from both Arabic (abou rach, meaning father of sweat), and Latin (will burra, meaning fabric with long hairs).

In the old time this plant had its place in the pharmacy, but this had steadily decreased until recently (in the 60's), thanks to the American Peoria laboratory that conducted systematic researches on oils and found out the the borage oil was way above the others.

Botany: The borage is a common plant presenting with blue flowers in a star shape around a gold heart. It is also recognized easily with its long fuzzy like hairs on the stems and the flower cases. The Borago family comprises three species of which Borage officinalis (English borage) is one. This species is an annual grass from 30 to 70 cm in height. It has a hollow stem of quite large diameter for such a modest plant, and a soft consistency as well. The leaves are oval at the base, elliptic, and then narrow in a long petiole, while the higher sheets are embracing. All the skins (stems, sheets, sepals) carry abundant large-sized hairs. The fruits are brown tetrakenes, which separate with maturity into 4 nucules containing each one a seed deprived of endosperm. Originating in minor Asia, the borage is banal in uncultivated places of Central and southernmost, and abundant Europe in North Africa. The cultivation is easy, however the seeds are not retained in the receptacle, which obstructs mechanized harvest. Traditionally, one collected only the flowers, which one dried in the shade to avoid the tanning.

Composition: of Borago officinalis
29.8%-38% of oil in seed
1.2%-1.9% of insaponifiable oil rich in tocopherol

Composition in fatty acids of Borago officinalis:

Fatty acids	Distribution in %
Myristic	1 - 0.1
Palmitic	10.2 - 12
Palmitoleic	0.1 - 0.4
Stearic	2.8 - 5.7
Oleic	14.5 - 21.3
Linoleic *	34.5 - 39
Linolenic	0.1 - 1
G-linolenic (GLA) *	17.6 - 25
Arachidonic	0 - 0.4
Gondoic	2 - 4.1
Erucic	1.5 - 2.8
Neuronic	1 - 1.9

- Linoléique acid: C18:2, n-6 6-7, 9-10
- Alpha linolénique acid C18:3, n-3 3-4, 6-7, 9-11
Each of them belongs to a different family: one is from the omega 6 the other from the omega 3 family
The Gamma Linolenic Acid is important because a lot of sickness often come from a deficit of GLA. For older poeple this deficit is almost always present.

Properties: the borage was always used in phytotherapy for its warming (sudorific) and blood purifying (depurative) properties. Recently the Borage has won much celebration for its very high levels of Gamma Linoleic acid. Our Borage oil is virgin (first cold pressing), and therefore not damaged by heat or contaminated by chemical solvents.

The preferred use of the oil of Borage in the field of the cosmetic is directly related to its fatty acid composition, especially the very high levels of GLA (even higher levels than evening primrose oil).

The benefits of the fatty acids for the skin are already known, but the GLA is of particular interest. As one ages it is harder for the body to maintain GLA, and therefore many people find immediate results when they begin to take this oil as a supplement. One example is its use as an anti-wrinkle remedy.

The oil can be taken orally for an internal treatment or directly applied on
skin. This will help the cells from the most outer layer of the epidermis (skin) to
function well. Internal use of the oil is recommended for skin problems but
also for preventing the appearance of wrinkles, cellular dehydration and preserving the elasticity of the epidermis (skin).

When applying the oil to the skin, the sebum secretion (natural skin oil) on the
superficial layer of the skin is then stimulated (dry skin as well as dry or
permed hair). This is best done in addition to taking the oil internally.

The high percentage of gamma linolenic acid in this oil, make it efficient in
the treatment of atopic dermatitis like eczema.

Thus we are brought to speak about the medicinal properties of borage oil. It is now
well known that GLA (gamma linolenic acid) is a precursor of prostaglandin
E1. One can understand than that using borage oil may improve conditions in the treatment of:

- Eczema which would be caused by a lack of GLA's

- reduction of pre-menstrual symptoms (headache, abdominal pain etc.
because GLA has an effect on some hormones).

- Improvement of blood circulation and plaques. In fact GLA’s are a precursor
of prostaglandin E1, which helps reduce arterial pressure.

-Rheumatoid Arthritis. Studies done in the last 15 years show that dietary supplementation with GLA reduces the clinical symptoms of rheumatoid arthritis.

Diabetic Neuropathy. In the last 20 years, clinical research has demonstrated that supplementation with GLA is an important factor contributing to prevention and improvement of neuropathy.

Cardiovascular Disease. GLA has been shown to help correct blood cholesterol levels, and may interfere with the growth of atherosclerotic plaque, one of the leading causes of heart disease. GLA also helps to lower stress-related blood press ure.

Process: The Codina's Borage oil is express by mechanical cold press the same way it was hundreds of years ago. This is the only way to keep all the vitamins and active ingredients intact.

THE "BORAGE TEST"

A lot of questions from our femal customers is in regard of dry skin and dehydratation. How dificult it is to answer! so many possible reasons... and so many vitamin or fatty acid deficiency may be responsible. Nevertheless, one of the most frequent reason is a deficiency in gamma linolenic acid (omega 6). with 4 oz of borage oil you have enough for a month treatment, taking one teaspoon 6 days a week. After the first week you should start noticing improvements on your skin and possibly with your health (mood swings, painfull menstruation, headache...). Either this test convince you and you can adjust dosage and frequency, or the result is not significant and you may consider other ways of re-hydratation.

What is unsaponifiable?

Technically in- or un-saponifiable means that which cannot be turned into soap, and soap is made from oil. Therefore the portion of oil with which soap cannot be made is said to be insaponifiable.

This portion or fraction of the oils is known to have numerous skin benefits. Some studies report that most of the vitamins, minerals, sterols, and other nutrients within an oil are actually contained within the unsaponifiable portion or fraction of the oil. We use Shea butter as a base for our soaps because it has the highest level of unsaponifiables and therefore extremely healing and nourishing to the skin.

A study on the unsaponifiable fraction of shea oil proved to contain certain vitamins and minerals, which directly protect the skin from free radicals. 1. Free radical are responsible for many problems including skin cancer, and as we know our environment and bodies contain more free radicals now than ever, so one can understand the benefit an insaponifiable oil gives.

As science looks deeper into the healing properties of plant oils we are beginning to find what the indigenous cultures have long known, which is that plants contain an enormous wealth of health giving, and healing properties.

1. (Vázquez Roncero et al., 1973; Montedoro et al., 1974; 1992a and b; 1993; Sato et al., 1990; Papadopoulos and Boskou, 1991; Chimi et al., 1988; 1991; Perrin et al., 1992; Reaven et al., 1993; Galli and Visioli, 1994; 1995; 1996; 1998; Livrea et al., 1995; Servili et al., 1996; Angerosa and Giovacchino, 1996; Baldioli et al., 1996; Litridou et al., 1997; Ryan et al., 1998; Saija et al., 1998; Mataix et al., 1999; Galletti et al., 1996; 1999; Ruiz Gutiérrez et al., 1999). The polyphenols in virgin olive oil may function in vivo as protective antioxidants by exerting a protective effect against LDL oxidation; it is well known that oxidized LDLs are atherogenic whereas normal ones are not (Katan et al., 1999; Cortesi and Fedeli, 1995; 1998; Cortesi et al., 1997; Berra et al., 199 5; Jacotot et al., 1998; Wiseman et al., 1996; Jiménez de Blas and del Valle González, 1996a y b; Esterbauer et al., 1990; 1991)

2. J Nutr. 2004 Dec; 134(12):3284-9

From C: Hi, I am living for a several weeks hicking with only a light backpack. I'll use soap for personal care but also for my laundry. What would you suggest?
I am 45 and my skin is rather dry and light.

Codina: Hello C, for you the hand made soap with sheabutter seems the perfect choice. Because the sheabutter insaponifiable elements are active in the soap, not only it will respect your delicate skin but will also preserve hydratation. For your laundry you may be surprised with the result and decide to use it for tough stains back home as well.

From V: I am looking for a natural product to wash my dog that will be gentle and soft. As my dog has long hair would you recommend an oil to add to the shampoo so it helps for the brushing.

Codina: Our customers use the Gardner's soap which is a natural soap with addition of neem oil. This oil is a powerful natural antiseptic. The only really natural soaps or shampoos are made with the ancient method used by Codina: No chemicals, only glycerin naturally formed during the process of soap making. the addition of a specific oil makes it a cold-cream soap and you can then benefit of the active ingredients embended in the soap itself.
Once you are done washing and rinsing your dog, and if you used our soap, make yourself a light rinsing lotion by adding 1.1/2 teaspoon of apple vinegar in a 50 oz bottle of water. Apply and massage, this will bring back the ph of the hair. It is not necessary to rinse it. if you experience difficulty brushing your dog's long hair you can also choose to apply pure neem oil directly on its hair once a week.

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