July 2005

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Welcome to our new edition of Cosmetic Vegetable Oils.
In July 2005, we talk about Hemp oil
. Rheumatism is the topic of our "back to school" section, and of course we are giving our answers to your most intrresting questions.

Editorial:
This month with Hemp we are exploring the wide range of properties of this plant.

Monthly Oil FlashHemp (Cannabis Sativa)
HISTORY:
Hemp has been known and used as a beneficial plant seemingly as far back as we have recorded history. For instance there are references to its use for the making of fabric from 8000 B.C., and in China there a records of it being used to make rope from as early as 12,000 B.C. Medicinally, also it has a lengthy history, being used for physical and emotional treatment from as early on as 8000 B.C. where in Mesopotamia for instance it was called "qu-na-bu" (a drug for grief).
Domestically hemp was important both to the natives, and the European settlers. Both George Washington and Thomas Jefferson are well known to have cultivated hemp, recording in detail the growing of the plant and storing of seeds.


BOTANY

Hemp: an annual herb in the Cannabaceae family. It grows 3-10 feet tall, and its leaves will grow into 5-7 serrated leaflets, and are hairy as well as often sticky with a sap like resin. The plant grows as either a male or a female and naturally flowers from June to October.

It is originally a native of the Caucasus region, which includes modern-day Eastern Europe, Northern India, and Iran. Currently it is cultivated worldwide in warm-to-temperate regions.

Composition of Hemp Oil
60 % linoleic acid
20 % alpha-linoleic acid
2.6 % unsaturated gamma-linoleic acid
12% Oleic
2% Stearic Acid
6% Palmitic Acid


PROPERTIES

In the widely acclaimed book "Fats that Heal, Fats that Kill" Udo Erasmus the uncommonly nutritious Hemp Oil is proclaimed "Natures Most Perfectly Balanced Oil". This is absolutely due to its perfect 3:1 ratio of the EFA's Linoleic, and Linolenic Acid. This ratio is best suited for long-term human use and consumption.
Recently at the University of Buffalo have identified an individual phytosterol in the C annabis Sativa plant, "B-sitosterol", which has been proven effective in inhibiting Prostate Cancer. The study showed a 28% increase in the inhibition of the cancer cells being able to divide, and therefore prevented the cancer from reproducing itself. There is also promising research from the University of Buffalo in using this same type of application with breast and colon cancer cells.
Its 2-5% content of GLA is one of the highest of vegetable oils and is also believed to be responsible for its effective use as an anti-inflammatory, even being successful as a remedy for chronic inflammation.
EFA's are known to be essential for the maintenance and health of the heart, development and function of the brain, and also absolutely necessary for health properly working, smooth, vibrant skin. The "Perfect Balance" of EFA's in Hemp makes it one of the most versatile, nutritious, and healing oils used by mankind.


QUESTIONS
Hello, I read your article on the oil of hemp and found its properties very interesting. On the other hand I would wish to know if there are counter-indications as for its use during the pregnancy? - Laetitia
Codina: there are no particular counter-indications, but don't be fooled by its simple quality if you could only choose from a few necessary oils this would be at the top of the list. For instance if you use oils to season your salad of for other dressings, try and add Hemp Oil up to 20%

I am 5 1/2 months pregnant and I am concerned about stretch marks Nathalie
Codina: Prevention is the key of the fight against stretch marks. Once they occur they are very difficult to reverse. We propose a butter, that being a mixture of Hemp oil + Shea butter. The immediate penetration of the oil of hemp allows a faster action and the Shea butter than exerts a durable long lasting action. You should be massaged morning and evening on the light colored areas.


IN REVIEW

Hemp has a vast historical use within cultures and tends to find its traditional use associated with strength because of its many natural qualities (ropes, papers, fabrics, etc).

With the present stage of our research, the oil of hemp seems one of the most complete and effective natural oils used in cosmetic.

It is more widely used though as edible oil, both in routine consumption, and added as a supplement.

The Oil that is used as a cosmetic is obtained by mechanical pressing of seeds, its perfectly preserved virtues are threefold and close to those of the oil of borage: hydration, flexibility of the skin, and the fight against the skins ageing.

It contains:
* 60 % of acid linoleic (fatty acid which supports the skin in three ways; reduces the water losses, has a softening action, reduced the skins irritation and inflammation, and increases surface circulation),
* 20 % of alpha-linoleic acid,
* 2.6 % of unsaturated gamma-linoleic acid to 90 %.

The oil of hemp combines the most interesting properties of the oils mainly used in cosmetic:
- It is recognized for its high acid contents fatty essential and acid gamma-linoleic: the free radicals are responsible for the ageing of the skin by their oxidizing action which waters the cells of saturated fatty acids. Generated by our organization and imported by our food, pollution, the sun, the free radicals deteriorate the structure of the cellular membrane, causing wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and brittleness of skins fabric. The essential fatty acids, present in strong quantity in the oil of hemp, compensate for the aggression of the free radicals by structuring the cellular membrane, and by forming fundamental concerning the cell. Thus, this invaluable contribution of unsaturated fatty acids helps the organization to constitute uninterrupted the structural elements necessary to the youth of the skin.

- It is excellent oil for skin application and massage as it has an extraordinary faculty of penetr ation. In a few minutes, its fluidity enables it to act.

- It is also recommended in aromatherapy as base oil: indeed, it in particular constitutes an ideal support for essential oils.

- Hydrating, re-firming, and repairing, its daily application reinforces the structure of the skins fabric, protecting your skin from the abuse of time.

With this balanced perfection the Oil of Hemp is best used internally and externally for all topical (skin) treatments, and can be consumed alone as a nutritional supplement even when it is not being used as a skin remedy.


back to schoolAbout Rheumatism:
- Any painful disorder of one's joints, muscles, or connective tissue. A group of disorders marked by inflammation or pain in the connective tissue structures of the body. These structures include bone, cartilage, and fat. Also Often Characterized by stiffness in related or surrounding areas. Rheumatism is the name used for the specific disorder, as well as a name used to group multiple imbalances, which seem to be of a common cause or complaint.

Rheumatism has been noted to be of varied causes, and has most likely been truly the case. Some of the most common known causes are foreign invaders including viruses and antagonist proteins and chemicals; the body's own immune system acting out of balance or being triggered by a foreign substance, the wearing down of structure and function of the bodies own tissues and systems, and the improper metabolic function of the bodies cells.

Antagonists such as foods and beverages, as well as chemicals in the environment both natural and man-made can cause rheumatism. It is also know to at time be caused by the internal climate of ones body being out of balance, and therefore the body begins to antagonize and in some cases even attack it self. Also it can be caused by foreign pathogens such as viruses, yeasts, and funguses.

It is important to keep ones body strong, healthy, and protected from the elements. Rheumatism is often classified as a "cold" pathology and therefore can be prevented and treated by keeping the proper balance of temprature both environmentally and internally. Keeping warm in cool climates, consuming a proper balance of warming and cooling foods, beverages, and spices, and using circulation increasing techniques such as exercise, and massage with healthy oils will all contribute to keeping one's body from the maladies of "cold".


Your Questions
From F: I hear a lot about horizontal presses used to extract the butter from shea nuts; manual versus hydraulic etc. Obviously an hydraulic press can produce more than a manual powered press, but everyone is saying their company makes the best press to extract shea. Is there really a difference in machinery or is it a matter of how you prepare the nuts prior to pressing and how you handle the butter after the pressing? Do you use the German equipment I hear so much about or some other; and why is one hydraulic press better than ano ther.

Codina: there is no difference between the various mechanical press. Horizontal press are older in Europe. Manual are used is Africa.
The problem is that 99% if the butter produced in Africa is obtained by the women without manual or hydraulic press but only by boiled water which damdge the product.
In our opinion, you can used all butters obtained by crushing method. Just be sure that it is not a solvent extraction process (most of the refined butter on the market) or a manual process without mechanical press (most of the raw butter on the market)


From S:
Hi, I would like to know what's the diference between sheabutter and olein. Do they have the same composition and virtue?

Codina: It is mostly a matter of conveniency in application. Olein is easier to apply on hair for exemple. Now if it is used for more "medicinal" applications it is true that raw sheabutter is more complete and thus more efficient. Olein is only the liquid part of the butter.


From M: How to use argan oil on mixt skin? morning and evening? should I apply it as a treatment for a few weeks, month or everyday? Is it compatible with my regular skin products?

Codina: You can use argan oil every day and be even more generous in the evening. You can add a few drops in your cream as well. Regarding your needs in vitamin E you can either use it as a treatment for a few weeks or every day. Your skin will tell you.



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